Kentmere – In the Footsteps of the Forgotten

HUDDLING inside the ruin of a quarrymen’s shelter high on Kentmere Pike as mist creeps in from the north-west bringing that prickly mizzle that soaks everything – it’s not a good day. I glance at the slate slabs in the wall in a vaguely-interested sort of way and suddenly think: someone’s son built that.

Someone’s father blasted the slate from the quarry; someone’s brother knocked it into manageable lumps with a tully and wedges; someone’s uncle split the lumps into slates with a riving hammer; someone’s nephew dressed them ready to be nailed on a roof; and at the end of the day, after they’d sent their produce down the fell on a packhorse, they gathered the waste and built this shelter. That would be about 150 years ago. It might have been further into the past; it might have been more recently. But they built it. And for the rest of their working lives they sat inside it to take their bait or shelter from the winter blizzards . . . Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Environment, Geology, Hiking, History, Industrial archaeology, Life, Mountains, Quarrying, Slate quarries, Walking | Tagged , , | 13 Comments

The Quest for Breakfast Above Loch Lochy

This is the best view of Meall na Teanga I have all day

ON the crest of a wet and desolate Cam Bealach, as rain streams in from the north and clouds engulf the ridge of Sron a’ Choire Gairbh, a desperate man wanders through the mire . . . Continue reading

Posted in Camping, Climbing, Cookery, Food, Hiking, Life, Mountains, Walking | Tagged , , , | 16 Comments

Farewell to Meall a Bhuiridh, Creise . . . and Fiunary

DO you have those days when there’s a song buzzing round in your head and you just can’t get rid of it? At first you hum it in an abstract sort of fashion. Then you catch yourself whistling a few bars as you’re pulling your boots on. And by the time you’re marching along the spine of a mountain ridge, you’re belting out lyrics – and you’re a hostage. It’s in your head; it’s in your heart; it’s in every step . . . Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Environment, Geology, Highland Clearances, Hiking, History, Mountains, Quarrying, Walking | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Beinn na Lap and Creagh Dhu Spirit (Corrour – Part 2)

IT’S 9.26am and the sky has descended to smother the land. I’m lying in a very damp tent with thin rain streaming in from the west and dark mist on the mountains. There is nothing quite so miserable as huddling in damp clothes in a damp tent on a damp day . . . Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Environment, Hiking, Life, Mountains, Railways, Walking | Tagged , , | 16 Comments

They Came in Search of Paradise (Corrour – Part 1)

CORROUR Halt was made for the opening scene of one of those slow-moving art house films where imagery replaces dialogue and nothing ever happens. I could have written the script. In fact, I think I will . . . Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Environment, Highland Clearances, Hiking, History, Life, Mountains, Railways, Ranting, Walking | Tagged , , | 17 Comments

Tide In, Tide Out – A Thirty-Year Journey

LIKE an ancient path that runs through the fenlands of eastern England, joined by tributaries that Hereward the Wake once trod with his band of men, this is a story that might end in the warming glow of a cottage fire or the mud of a benighted tidal estuary. I don’t know yet because it’s an adventure. All I know is it starts at Norwich station.

Norwich? But there aren’t any mountains near Norwich, are there? No, is the short and only answer. But there is adventure. Let me tell you about Father Fred . . . Continue reading

Posted in Berney Arms, Cycling, Environment, Hiking, History, Life, Machine Gun Corps, Norfolk Broads, Norfolk Regiment, Railways, Royal Dublin Fusiliers, Walking, Windmills | Tagged | 19 Comments

The Walker With No Ticket to Ride

YOU’VE had a long day walking and intend to catch a train home. The station ticket office is closed and there’s no conductor on the train you’ve caught. You alight at your destination without a ticket. Do you explain your predicament to a station official and pay your £10 fare? Or do you shrug your shoulders and walk out through the station doors – in the knowledge you have committed a misdemeanour far worse than many of the looters presently being processed by the courts? CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE READING or go to Feet First.

Posted in Hiking, Life, Looters, Politics, Railways, Ranting, Walking | 6 Comments

Empty Skies, Empty Moors, Empty Head . . .

I’M trying to empty my head because there are too many things in it. I don’t know about yours, but mine has a limited capacity and tends to overheat quickly. So in an attempt to purge the clutter, I’ve decided to jump on the road bike and pedal the 29.5 miles from my front door to England’s highest pub, the Tan Hill Inn . . .  Continue reading

Posted in Cycling, Environment, Hiking, Life, Mountains, Ranting, Tan Hill Inn, Walking, Writing | Tagged | 9 Comments

The Inglorious 12th – It’s a Riot

IT’S not a good day for walking the moors. There are looters about. And they’re carrying guns . . . CLICK HERE FOR FEET FIRST to continue reading.

Posted in Environment, Hiking, Hunting, Life, Mountains, Politics, Ranting, Walking | Tagged | 4 Comments

Long Meg – Standing with the Stones

I AM a caveman. My roots are in the Neolithic period. This is something I became aware of at an early age – even before watching Stig of the Dump on Blue Peter. That’s why I took up potholing as a teenager and became a tunneller in a slate quarry before getting a soft job in a warm office . . .  Continue reading

Posted in Archaeology, C2C, Cycling, Environment, Geology, History, Mountains, Quarrying, Walking | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

Mount Keen, The Mounth, and a Pan of Polish Borscht

Mount Keen from Glen Tanar

DZIEN dobry. I’m practising my Polish. Nazywam się Alen. Bardzo mi miło. I’m in a Polish mood because there’s a billy of borscht waiting for me in the car park in Glen Tanar. It’s that time of year, you see. Beetroot surplus on the allotment. Two varieties if anyone’s interested: Cylindra and Bolthardy. I occasionally grow Detroit as well, but they have a very high sugar content and tend to attract as yet unidentified nocturnal foragers . . . Continue reading

Posted in Allotments, Beetroot, Borscht, Climbing, Cookery, Cycling, Food, Hiking, History, Mountains, Walking | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Here Endeth Another Lesson

YOU’RE resting in the shade on the crest of a Pennine pass when two people draw up in a campervan. Instead of getting out to admire the view, soak up the sunshine and breathe the fresh Pennine air, they put the kettle on and just sit in the van. Have you made a judgement? Then CLICK HERE or go to Feet First.

Posted in Cycling, Hiking, Mountains, Ranting, Walking | Tagged | 2 Comments